How to Select the Right Finish for Your Product
When working with American alligator leather, the finish you choose is just as important as the cut, color, or scale pattern. A well-chosen finish elevates the aesthetic, enhances performance, and supports your construction method—whether you're crafting structured handbags, soft hobos, cowboy boots, or luxury garments.
At American Tanning and Leather, we offer a variety of premium finishes designed to meet the needs of designers, makers, and manufacturers alike. Here’s your comprehensive guide to understanding each finish and how to choose the right one for your project.
Glazed Finish – High Gloss, High Craftsmanship
Best for: Structured handbags, dress belts, small leather goods
Not ideal for: Soft bags, footwear, heavy-use items
Our most iconic finish, glazed leather is hand-polished to a brilliant mirror-like shine using a natural agate stone on a glazing jack. There are no lacquers or plastic coatings—just a pure protein polish that enhances the natural beauty of the alligator.
Working with it:
Glazed leather is technically advanced to work with. Skilled makers often:
- Skive or split the leather very thin
- Re-glaze panels using their own glazing jack after cutting
- Lightly bombé (shape) the leather for a rounded effect
- Reinforce the back to preserve structure and prevent collapse
Important: Glazed leather cannot be re-glazed after a product is constructed. Any damage or loss of shine during assembly is permanent, making this finish best suited for seasoned artisans working with rigid structures and clean construction lines.
Matte / Desert Finish – The Most Versatile and Maker-Friendly
Best for: Footwear, belts, wallets, accessories, upholstery
Not ideal for: High-gloss or dressy items
Matte (also known as Desert) is our most versatile and easy-to-use finish. It has a soft touch, subtle sheen, and shows off the natural grain beautifully. It’s also our most user-friendly finish.
Why makers love it:
- Behaves like traditional cowhide
- Cuts cleanly and skives easily
- Ideal for beginners or brands new to working with exotic leather
- Accepts embossing, dyeing, and antique treatments well
If you’re unsure where to start, Matte/Desert is often the safest and most forgiving choice for both soft and structured goods.
Millennium Finish – Gloss with Durability for Turned Bags
Best for: Handbags, small leather goods, light footwear
Not ideal for: High-gloss purists or extreme wear-and-tear items
Millennium is a durable, water-resistant finish with a tight break and glossy appearance, protected by a urethane topcoat. While visually similar to glazed leather, it’s more flexible and resilient—making it better suited for products that will bend, flex, or be turned during construction.
Why it matters:
Millennium was specifically developed for bags constructed inside-out and turned. Turning a bag made from glazed leather is extremely difficult and often causes cracking or permanent dulling. Millennium offers a viable alternative, maintaining a clean, polished look without the fragility of a traditional glaze.
Note: This finish does tend to highlight natural scars and imperfections, so it’s best used on cleaner skins or when natural variation is embraced.
Nubuck Finish – Soft, Velvety, and Textural
Best for: Slouchy bags, sneakers, belts, fashion-forward accessories
Not ideal for: Products exposed to moisture or high abrasion
Nubuck is a top-grain leather that has been lightly buffed to create a suede-like texture. It’s soft, matte, and tactile—perfect for designs that prioritize feel and relaxed luxury.
Designers love it for:
- Texture and visual depth
- Modern, fashion-forward aesthetics
- Aging beautifully over time
Care Tip: Nubuck is more sensitive to moisture and should be protected accordingly, but the reward is a rich, elevated look and feel.
Garment Finish – Lightweight and Drapeable for Apparel
Best for: Jackets, shirts, slouch bags, soft hobos
Not suitable for: Footwear or structured items
Garment finish is specially developed for softness and flexibility, ideal for wearable leather. Much like our Matte/Desert finish in appearance, garment leather is softer and thinner, achieved by shaving the skins down and treating them with a custom blend of oils.
Ideal for:
- Lightweight jackets and shirts
- Unstructured bags that drape or slouch
- Fold-over clutches or casual silhouettes
Important: Because of its thinness, garment leather must be backed or reinforced when used in handbags to prevent stretching or distortion. It is not appropriate for footwear or high-stress structural applications.
Custom Finishes – Made Just for You
Looking for something completely unique? We offer custom finishing services including:
- Pearlized, metallic, or iridescent effects
- Antique rubs or distressed textures
- Waxed, vintage, or fashion-forward color palettes
Whether you’re developing a limited edition capsule or designing for the runway, we’ll help bring your creative vision to life.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right finish is about more than just looks. It’s about matching your product’s design, construction method, and intended use with the right material. At American Tanning and Leather, we’re here to help you get it right—every time.
Need help deciding?
Reach out to our team at info@amtan.com or visit www.amtan.com.